Urban Comfort

2 Great Recipes for a Weeknight

January always takes more from me than she gives. Even in New Orleans, better known for its subtropical heat. But January or not, there's always dinner to be made, and in the winter, I'm less likely to be happy with the simple, deconstructed meals I tend to favor in the summer. I want something to ward off the chill, to light a little fire inside. I want hearty and happy, but with my feet dragging across the floor, I need something simple and quick to prepare. 

Two of my favorite go-to dishes for a winter weeknight are spaghetti aglio e olio with roasted shrimp or a perfectly cooked ribeye served with mashed potatoes (or Ore-Ida Simply Olive Oil and Sea Salt Country Style Fries, if I'm feeling really lazy). I made both of these last week, back-to-back, on single parenting nights with plenty of homework. No blood or tears were shed in their creation, so I feel safe in saying they're good weeknight dishes. 

I use Ina Garten's recipe for spaghetti aglio e olio, with roasted shrimp (which is even easier than pan sautéing, if that's possible).  Before serving, I just toss the shrimp with the spaghetti. Even better, make extra and save the leftovers for lunch the next day. It's really good cold!

For the ribeye, I use Alton Brown's method, which has never once failed me. I reduce or increase the oven cooking time, depending on the thickness of the steak, but it's simple math. (Admittedly, I am precise with the cooking time, relying on the stopwatch feature on my phone. But when you're talking seconds rather than minutes, precision is key!) 

Simple, so good. Exactly what a chilly January night requires. 

 

Click thru for links

Ina Garten's Spaghetti Aglio E Olio

 

Directions for roasted shrimp:

1 pound large shrimp (26/30 count)
1 Tablespoon olive oil
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Preheat oven to 400 °F. Toss shrimp with the olive oil, salt, and pepper. Spread them in one layer on a sheet pan and roast for 6-8 minutes, just until they're pink and cooked through.

 

Alton Brown's Pan-Seared Rib-Eye Recipe

 

 

Christmas Baking

I've been hard at work finishing assignments for next Christmas, dreaming of all the fun things I want to make and do for this Christmas. It feels like a late start this year, so I'm skipping most of the holiday crafting and overly ambitious decor in favor of the gift giving - the baking, the wrapping, the spreading of joy and cheer.  

First up, the baking. I've never been one of those people who bake a gazillion cookies every year, but I suddenly can't wait to get into the kitchen.  There will be booze, too.  Friends bring fruit from their trees, I make liqueurs. This year, there's been a steady stream of fruit, which means my kitchen is populated with bottles and bottles of satsuma, calamondin, and kumquat liqueurs along with the blackberry whiskey and almond liqueur I've been aging since last year.  Lots of holiday cheer. But I digress. Back to that holiday baking.

I'm gathering up all the recipes I plan to make for friends and family and it seemed selfish not to share them.  I really want to stretch a bit, try something new.  Of course there will be some favorites that I'll revisit, such as the Scandinavian Almond Cake and Rosemary Butter Cookies from this post.  They'll be part of my holiday repertoire forever and ever! Amen. 

Here's what else I'm eyeing this year - 

 

Coconut Pecan Pralines from Confession of a Cookbook Queen.  Over the summer, a friend mentioned his mother's coconut pralines, which was an entirely new concept to me, and one I've been eager to try. The addition of pecans is a bonus.

 

Because there can never be too many pecans,  I'll be making this Pecan Fig Nougat from For the Love of the South as well.

 

I spend most of my year waiting for blackberry season to roll around again. It's all too short of a season, so blackberry jam keeps me happy during the waiting. Blackberry Jam Shortbread Bars from Recipe Girl.

As a Southerner, red velvet is simply part of my cultural heritage. Besides, these Red Velvet Crinkle Cookies from Cooking Classy are too pretty to pass up.

Lemon Almond Cookie Wreaths from Cook Republic.   Because sometimes you just need a simple cookie to eat by the fistful.

I made these Calissons once (from this recipe by Foodbeam) and they were lovely. Except it was summer and I thought they'd be nice for the winter months instead. I use my absolute favorite orange blossom water from Mymoune, which there seems to be a current shortage of.  However, I was able to locate it through The Meadow (available for pick-up or mail order).

 

 
Let's face it, the holidays require copious amounts of coffee. What better accompaniment than Eggnog Biscotti from Home Cooking Memories?  

 

Admittedly, I find these Mushroom Shaped Lebkuchen from Twigg Studios completely adorable, but we all need a little gingerbread during the holidays. 

 

That's where I'm at so far. When all is said and done, I think I'll need some type of chocolate concoction beyond the red velvet. I could always make fudge, but that's hardly stretching myself. Or I could try the Brutti Ma Buoni from my friend, Chef Lisa White.  They're my son's absolute favorite cookie in the entire world and she brings him full boxes which he always manages to eat singlehandedly.  Perhaps it's time to give them a whirl at home. 

Does anyone else have any favorites I should try?  Post a link in the comments (or include the recipe) or email me. 

Happy Monday!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Satsuma Meyer Lemon Icebox Pie

Most Thanksgivings you'll find me in the kitchen making the traditional array of pies. But on Wednesday, when my cousin left a bag of beautiful satsumas and Meyer Lemons on my porch, I did a spontaneous turnabout and concocted a creamy icebox pie. Sweet with just enough acid to cut through the heaviness of endless Thanksgiving sides. 

Satsumas are plentiful in Louisiana at this time of year, but you can substitute tangerines or clementines if they're not readily available to you. Just be sure to make this pie the day before you need it, as it requires chilling time before serving. 

And now, let the Christmas festivities begin!

SATSUMA & MEYER LEMON ICEBOX PIE

2 1/2 cups graham cracker crumbs
1/2 + 1/8 cup sugar
10 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted

1 1/2 cups freshly squeezed satsuma juice (tangerine, clementine or mandarin orange juice may be substituted)
1/2 cup freshly squeezed Meyer lemon juice
Zest of 1 orange
Zest of 1/2 lemon
Two 14-oz. cans sweetened condensed milk
2 large egg yolks

Heat oven to 400 degrees F.  Combine graham cracker crumbs and sugar in a bowl and stir in melted butter with a fork until evenly combined. Transfer to a 9-inch Springform pan and press into the bottom and halfway up the sides; set aside. 

Combine juice, orange and lemon zest, condensed milk, and yolks in a bowl; beat on medium-high speed of a hand mixer for 5 minutes. 

Pour into prepared crust and place Springform pan on a baking sheet.  Bake until crust is browned and filling is only slightly set, about 20-25 minutes. 

Let pie cool, then freeze until set, at least 2 hours or overnight.  Transfer to the refrigerator - remove 15 minutes before serving.  Serve with whipped cream on the side. 

 

Vietnamese Iced Coffee

Okay, who am I kidding with all of this fall talk? It's still hot outside. ( I tried to fool myself the other day with a long sleeved T-shirt and nearly passed out from heat exhaustion.) So I'll have to satisfy myself psychologically with seasonal projects while accepting reality, namely, the need for iced coffee.

I'm addicted to caffeine. No sugarcoating it. But like most things that become a need rather than a pleasure, I found over time that it just wasn't as much fun as it used to be. I powered through cups of coffee every day in an effort to stay minimally awake. However, as my energy levels are becoming more balanced, I find that I don't need nearly as much coffee to get through my day. It's a relief, it's allowed me to experience the pleasure of ritual again. 

On a sweltering summer afternoon this year, I had the bliss of an afternoon with my friend Natalie and my first experience with iced Vietnamese coffee at The Orange Couch. It was so luxurious, it was almost like having dessert. An occasion to indulge in pleasure rather than simple, greedy refueling. 

It's a DIY affair at The Orange Couch, so I experienced the slow dripping of chicory coffee into a mug already containing condensed milk. Afterwards, a stir to bring it all together, and a pour over ice. No need for additional sweeteners or dairy. It's thick and rich, not the watered down mixture that often passes for iced coffee. I was instantly hooked. 

It's easy to make Vietnamese coffee at home. You can order an inexpensive phin and coffee online, even the sweetened condensed milk, if you desire. Of course, convenience has its place, too, and I'm elated by the bottled version I can buy from Magasin, one of my favorite local Vietnamese restaurants.  Their bottled coffee isn't available for mail order yet, but Caphin out of Houston, TX is now selling their bottled brew online. Buy a case and stash it away for those occasions when the usual cup of joe just won't do.

 

Here's how to make it at home --

Iced Vietnamese Coffee

2 Tablespoons dark roast ground coffee (see Resources)
2 Tablespoons sweetened condensed milk

Bring 1 cup of water to a boil. Remove the top screen from the filter, add coffee, then screw the top screen on. Place the filter over a 12-oz. heatproof container or glass that contains the condensed milk.

Pour a splash of hot water into the filter, to allow the coffee grounds to bloom. As the coffee begins to drip through, add enough water to reach the top of the filter. Place the lid back on the filter and let the coffee drip through, about 4 minutes.  (If the coffee stops dripping before 4 minutes has passed, you may need to gently loosen the screw to relieve the pressure.)

Stir to combine, then pour over ice.

Resources:

Something you may not know about New Orleans - We have a large, vibrant Vietnamese population, so Vietnamese food is as much a part of our current cuisine as the usual fare that's synonymous with New Orleans culture.

Want to get into details? Coffee Geek has a detailed analysis (and tutorial) for making the best Vietnamese coffee possible. 

Coffee:  Our own Cafe du Monde coffee and chicory is often used, but you can purchase the tradtional Trung Nguyen Gourmet Blend  online. 

Phins (coffee filter sets) are available at many Asian stores, also through Amazon.  I've linked to the single serving size here, but they do come in different sizes. 

I use Eagle Brand condensed milk since it's the most readily available, but you can buy Longevity brand online.

 

Off the Boards: Grapefruit Bars

My oven sat idle for far too long this summer and I suddenly felt the urge to bake something yesterday, but it had to be quick and simple.  This recipe is both of those, born out of a Pinterest pin from Jennifer at Savory Simple. I wish I could take credit for this idea, but I cannot (though I have to wonder why I never thought of it, as much as I love grapefruit and as long as I've made lemon bars). However, the original pin went back and forth between recipes and I was a little lazy, so I just made adjustments to my standard lemon bar recipe.

I like the grapefruit! It's completely different than a lemon bar, not a wishy washy, could be any kind of citrus bar. Distinctively grapefruit. It's a little tart, not achingly sweet, a good variation of a classic to take you into the fall and winter months. 

 
Grapefruit Bars

Crust:

1 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup confectioners sugar
pinch salt
1/2 cup unsalted butter, cold, cut into cubes

Filling:

2 large eggs
3/4 cup granulated sugar
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed pink grapefruit juice
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
2 tablespoons flour
2 teaspoons finely shredded grapefruit zest

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a medium bowl, stir together flour, powdered sugar, and salt. Using a pastry blender, cut in butter until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Press mixture into the bottom of an ungreased 8-inch square baking pan. Bake 15-20 minutes or until the top is just golden.

While the crust is baking, prepare the filling: 

Combine all filling ingredients (except the zest) in a bowl. Beat at low speed, scraping bowl when needed, until well mixed.  Stir in grapefruit zest.  Pour filling over hot, partially baked crust. Continue baking for 18-20 minutes, or until the edges turn golden and the center is set. Cool completely on a wire rack.  Dust with powdered sugar and cut into bars. 

Tip: Before making the crust, I line my baking pan with aluminum foil (the ends forming an overhang over the edges of the pan), then just lift the whole thing out of the pan after it's baked. I find it easier to cut into bars that way.

 

A Simple Snack with Homemade Strawberry Jam

Strawberry season comes earlier in Louisiana than the rest of the country. Just when it nears the end and I'm finally in step with spring, I end up scrambling to pick the last of the harvest. Which is exactly what a friend and I did a few weeks ago, batching those berries into countless jars of jam (and if you're going to make 6 batches of jam after a day of picking, I highly suggest the company of a good friend). 

I love this particular recipe from the cookbook, Dam Good Sweet.  It's the second year I've used it, and I find it more complex than your basic strawberry jam. There's just enough citrus to brighten up the flavor and not so much sugar that it's cloyingly sweet.

I have more than one friend who simply eats it with a spoon, like candy.  But my favorite way to enjoy it is with goat cheese and Triscuits (after a side-by-side comparison, I like the Reduced Fat version best with this). It's a heavenly snack, even better when shared with friends. 

PONCHATOULA STRAWBERRY JAM

Adapted from (and courtesy of) DamGoodSweet: Desserts to Satisfy Your Sweet Tooth, New Orleans Style [Taunton Press, 2009]  [cookbook by David Guas and Raquel Pelzel]

Ingredients

2 1/2 pounds strawberries, hulled and quartered
3 1/4 cups sugar
Zest of 1 lemon
1 1/2 teaspoons pectin

Directions 

Place a small ceramic or glass plate in the freezer. Place the strawberries in a large pot and, if desired, mash the berries a bit with a potato masher. Add 3 cups of the sugar and the lemon zest to the strawberries and place over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, folding the strawberries and sugar together until the sugar is dissolved and the mixture comes to a simmer, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, mix the pectin with the remaining 1/4 cup of sugar. Add the pectin mixture to the strawberries and continue to cook until the mixture reaches 220ºF, another 30 to 35 minutes (note that the jam will stay at around 217ºF for what seems like an eternity - be patient, the temperature will rise, so stick with it), skimming the foam from the top and stirring every so often. Take the plate out of the freezer and spoon a small dollop of jam onto it. The jam should set up semi-stiff, and when you run your finger through it, the trail should not run back together immediately. If it does, keep cooking. If it doesn't, turn off the heat and let the jam sit for 10 minutes. (This helps ensure that your berries don't float to the top of the jam jar.)

Fill a large stockpot or canning pot with water and bring to a boil. Add the jars, lids, and bands, and simmer for 10 minutes. Use tongs to remove the jars, bands, and lids to a clean kitchen towel. Once cool enough to handle (but still warm) fill the jars nearly full with strawberry jam, leaving a 1/2-inch space at the top. Screw the lids on.

Add more water to the pot if necessary and bring to a boil. Place a canning rack in the pot and set the filled jars into the rack. Boil the jars for 10 minutes (the filled jars should be completely covered by the boiling water). Using tongs, remove the jars and place on the kitchen towel. If refrigerating, be sure to cool the filled jars for a few hours first. Unopened, the jam will keep in a cool, dark place for a few months. After opening, try to eat the jam within a week or two.

Makes five 8-ounce jars

 

Tips:  

Even when using small strawberries, I prefer that they be mashed into smaller pieces. But if you like to keep the fruit whole in your jam, simply quarter the large berries and leave small and medium berries whole. The whole berries will stay suspended in the jam and disintegrate into a schmear when you spread it.

The cooking temperature in the original recipe specifies 220ºF to 222ºF. However, I start checking it at 218ºF. I found some of my batches were ready at 219ºF, but most often, 220ºF was perfect. Anything beyond that was overcooked. (For tips on canning 101, I find this post to be helpful.)

You may not want to put the effort into homemade jam. But you can still experiment with store bought - try mixing in finely grated lemon zest to taste. My favorite tool for grating citrus is my Microplane Zester.

 

Thank you to chef David Guas for sharing this recipe. 

 

Orange Blossom Ice Cream

 

The orange blossoms are nearly spent now, the courtyard awash in a cascade of yellowing petals, the pungent aroma lingering, slowly stealing up through the decay. When inhalation isn't enough to sate the senses, it's time to move on to ingestion. Fortunately such desire isn't limited to the short lifespan of orange blossoms, a fragrant bottle of orange blossom water will do nicely (my favorite is from Mymoune). 

This ice cream is perfect for spring, before desire for the sharper, crisper tastes of summer prevails. Heady, but delicate enough not to overpower. Quite simply, a spoonful of springtime. 

 

Orange Blossom Ice Cream

2 1/2 cups whole milk
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon + 2 teaspoons orange blossom water (or to taste)
8 large egg yolks
1 cup sugar

1. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the milk, 3/4 cup of the sugar, and the heavy cream and bring to a simmer over medium heat.

2. Meanwhile, whisk together the egg yolks and the remaining 1/4 cup of sugar. Remove the milk mixture from the heat and add a little to the egg yolk mixture to warm it, whisking constantly to keep the yolks from curdling. Pour the egg yolk mixture into the hot milk mixture, whisking the milk constantly as your pour.

3. Return the custard to the stove and cook it over low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until it thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon, about 5 minutes. Remove the custard from the heat and pour it through a sieve, into a bowl. Let cool completely.

4. Stir in vanilla extract and orange blossom water.  Chill until thoroughly cold, at least 4 hours, preferably overnight.

5. Freeze in an ice cream maker according to the manufacter's directions. 

King Cake

It's all about Mardi Gras now. My dining room table is littered with masks in process, the marching bands pass in front of my house for daily practice, filling the air with a palpable electricity. The bleachers have cropped up downtown along St. Charles Avenue, the houses are decorated with all sorts of banners and flags and Mardi Gras lights, and of course there are king cakes piled to the sky in every market and bakery across town.  Mardi Gras is impossible to ignore here, and I dare even the most jaded not to succumb to the excitement. 

But the one tradition that I've always half-heartedly embraced is the king cake. I partake in one or two of them during the season, simply as a nod to tradition, but I'm definitely not passionate about them. There are the cakes that are too dry, overstuffed with creams and fillings to salvage the dry dough. There are the ones that are more sugar and icing than cake, giving me a quick headache. Some are too dense and doughy, better than dry, but simply too much. 

There's a change in the air, though. Over the last couple of years, new king cakes are emerging, with only a nod to tradition and a focus on quality. There's the king cake from Domenica, created by Chef Lisa White, a decadent concoction filled with bananas, mascarpone cheese and pecans, then gilded with salted caramel and edible gold flakes. It's over-the-top, insanely delicious. We had two of them last year and they were demolished within minutes. I was lucky to get a forkful. Alas, the king cake from Domenica is only available to locals.

My other favorite hews closer to the traditional king cake, but less toothachingly sweet, moist, light and wonderful. It's the kind of king cake you can eat for breakfast and not feel guilty (or sick) over. This king cake, created by Sucre, is really the only king cake I want to eat (when I'm not in the mood for absolute decadence). The good news - they ship around the country. Which means, in the words of Dirty Coast, my favorite local T-shirt retailer, you can "be a New Orleanian. Wherever you are."

Order your king cake through the end of the month, right here.

Off the Boards

As I've mentioned before, I'm a complete Pinterest addict. Being a visual person, it works for me on all kinds of levels. But with more than 7,000 pins on my boards, I thought it was time to start unearthing the treasures, not just sharing the pretty pictures or inspiration but actually making or doing the things I've pinned. How else do you determine if something really works or if a recipe is destined to become an heirloom? I'm not going to set a schedule to these posts because I'm terrible when it comes to rules and deadlines here. But when I've done a few things that I think are worth sharing, I'll post.

Recently, it's been all about food. There was a lot of holiday baking going on and now it's really cold, so comfort food seems in order. Any of the following recipes will provide just that, a little comfort.

 

Scandinavian Almond Cake

I made this Scandinavian Almond Cake from Outside Oslo more than a dozen times over the holidays. It's super easy and quick to make, perfect for giving, and sure to become a staple in our household, in every season. You can order the traditional almond cake pan from Amazon. I ordered this one and I've been really happy with it.

My Notes:  

1. This version is slightly different than the traditional Scandinavian cake, with the butter being creamed instead of melted. I think this gave it a lighter, moist texture that was perfect.

2. This recipe also calls for an additional 1/2 teaspoon of almond extract over the original.  I had a nice extract from my local Fresh Market and the 2 teaspoons in the recipe were perfect. But if I were making it with a more readily available extract, such as McCormick, I might go with the traditional 1 1/2 teaspoons and see if that's enough. Just comparing them by smell, the McCormick brand seems more bitter than the Fresh Market brand.  

3.  I knew this cake had a reputation for being very delicate and breaking if it was removed from the pan before it had completely cooled. However, I had absolutely no problems. I sprayed the pan with Pam Bakers spray (which I find works better than Baker's Joy), then lined the pan with toasted, ground almonds, as specified in the recipe. I let each cake cool for 30 minutes, then popped them out. It worked like a charm, not a crack to be found.  

Rosemary Butter Cookies

Apparently I've had this recipe from Martha Stewart Holiday Cookies since 2005, but I have to admit, it was this lovely photograph from Cupcakes and Cashmere that compelled me to make them. I am so, so glad I did! I made several batches of these over the holidays as well, and this recipe is a keeper. 

 

Slow Cooker Honey Garlic Chicken

After all of the holiday baking, I'm happy to spend less time in the kitchen for a little while, at least when it comes to the everyday stuff. This slow cooker Honey Garlic Chicken from Just a Taste takes minutes to prep and it's just as satisfying as it looks. The only note I have is that I needed to reduce the sauce more than 3 minutes. Otherwise, it would have been too thin to cling to the chicken the way it does in the photo. Good, happy food.

 

Stay warm, people.  It's cooooold out there! 

Turkey Bone Gumbo

In my world, the turkeys are handled by the men. When I was young, my grandfather would spend several days smoking and tending the birds, the delicious smokiness following him indoors. It was the only Thanksiving turkey I can remember, year after year, and it still pains me that no one ever learned his techniques before he died. My father and my brother are all about deep frying the turkey, usually a gathering of men, the women left to tend the sides and desserts. It's delicious, too, and I don't mind not being a part of it. It feels like tradition.

But I still order a turkey every year to have in my home, regardless of where I spend the day. It's always smoked because I equate certain foods with the people I've lost. When I partake of those dishes, it is a more powerful remembrance, a more secure connection, than any trip to any cemetery could ever offer me. 

The day after Thanksgiving, my husband takes up the mantle and uses the leftover turkey to make a turkey and sausage gumbo, a labor of love that signifies his own progression from New Yorker to Southerner. As it so happens, Friday is the anniversary of my grandfather's death fourteen years ago. We'll make and serve this gumbo, without doubt remembering the things we loved about him, laughing at silly things he did, speaking of him to my son, who would have brought him so much pleasure, and it will all be good.

Happy Thanksgiving!

 

Turkey Bone Gumbo - 
You can make this with either a smoked or roasted turkey
Makes 6-8 servings

3/4 cup vegetable oil
3/4 cup flour
2 cups chopped onions
1/2 cup chopped bell peppers
1/2 cup chopped celery
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cayenne
1/2 pounds smoked sausage, such as andouille or kielbasa, chopped
2 quarts turkey broth (see below)
Reserved turkey meat (we always save 2 or 3 cups of dark meat from the turkey before we even make the stock)
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 tablespoons chopped green onion

1. Combine the oil and flour in a large cast-iron pot or enameled cast-iron Dutch oven, over medium heat. Stirring slowly and constantly, make a dark brown roux, the color of chocolate.

2. Season the onions, bell peppers, and celery with the salt and cayenne. Add this to the roux and stir until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the sausage and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, for 45 minutes. Add the reserved turkey meat and cook for 15 minutes. Add the parsley and green onions. 

3. Serve in soup bowls with rice. (Can add filé powder to taste, at the table) 

Turkey Broth
makes approximately 2 quarts

1 turkey carcass
3 ribs celery, cut into large pieces
2 medium onions, quartered
4 quarts water (or enough to cover the carcass)
2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
4 bay leaves 

1. Put the carcass in a large stockpot and add all of the ingredients.

2. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer, uncovered for 2 hours. Remove from the heat and skim any fat that has risen to the surface.

3. Strain the broth through a large fine-mesh strainer. Reserve any meat that has fallen off of the bones (if it doesn't feel too dry) and any meat that may still remain on the carcass.

Use right away or store the broth in quart containers in the freezer.

*This recipe is a repost from November 2010. There have been no changes made from that original recipe.

Fig Jam Cake with Nutmeg Ice Cream & Candied Pecans

I've been making my grandmother's (reworked) fig cake recipe for several years now. It's quick and easy to make and it's a crowd pleaser. Usually I make it and leave it on the counter and the pieces disappear one by one, a casual Bundt cake that beckons to anyone passing through the kitchen. But this summer, I took it to a dinner party in the country, where a good fig cake is always appreciated, and the host served it with a scoop of vanilla ice cream on top. I thought it elevated that simple cake and I immediately started thinking of a fall version.

My original recipe calls for chopped pecans in the cake, but I took them out of the cake and candied them with cane syrup instead, as a topping for the ice cream. I could have stuck with the vanilla ice cream, which was very good, but I'm a huge fan of nutmeg and I thought the mellow spiciness would be a great seasonal accompaniment.

The nice thing about this dessert is that all of the components work on their own, so you can mix-and-match, make one or all of them. It can serve as a substitute or an accompaniment to the traditional Thanksgiving pie, and it will take you all the way through the winter months. 

 

FIG CAKE:

2 cups granulated sugar
1 cup vegetable oil
3 large eggs
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp. baking soda
1 dash salt
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 cup buttermilk
1 cup fig jam or preserves (see note)

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Liberally grease and flour a 10-cup Bundt or tube pan.  (I use solid shortening.)
 
2. Mix sugar, oil, and eggs until well blended (if using a standing mixer, mix on medium speed).

3. In another bowl, combine dry ingredients, then add the dry ingredients alternately with the buttermilk. Mix well.

4. Fold in fig jam or preserves (if there are any large fig pieces in your preserves, mash them into smaller pieces with a fork).

5. Bake for 50-60 minutes, or until an inserted toothpick comes out with just a few crumbs.  Let the cake rest in the pan for 15 or 20 minutes.  Using the tip of a knife, gently loosen the cake from the sides of the pan and invert on a wire rack to finish cooling.

***Note:  After extensive testing, the success of this cake does seem to depend on the fig jam/preserves used. I have found that Italian brands seem to work better than domestic brands. The ones I use most often for this cake are from Sclafani  and Le Colline di Evagro, both of which come from the Abruzzo region in Italy. 

 

NUTMEG ICE CREAM
Yield: 1 Quart
Saveur

2 teaspoons freshly grated nutmeg
2 cups half-and-half
1 whole nutmeg, cracked
3/4 cup sugar
6 egg yolks
1 cup heavy cream

1. Toast grated nutmeg (a Microplane grater is perfect for this) in a skillet over medium heat, 1-2 minutes. Remove pan from heat; set aside.

2. Heat half-and-half and cracked nutmeg in a 4-quart saucepan until it just begins to simmer. Remove from the heat; let steep for 10 minutes.

3. In a bowl, whisk together sugar and yolks. While whisking, slowly pour in the half-and-half mixture. Return the mixture to the pan; cook, stirring, until the mixture thickens, about 8-10 minutes.

4. Pour through a fine strainer into a large bowl. Whisk in toasted nutmeg and cream; cover custard and chill, at least 2 hours or preferably, overnight.

5. Freeze custard in an ice cream maker; transfer to an airtight container. Freeze until set (about 4 hours) before serving.

 

CANE SYRUP CANDIED PECANS

Nonstick vegetable oil spray
3 tablespoons Steens cane syrup
1 1/2 tablespoons cane sugar
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups pecan pieces

1. Preheat oven to 325 degreesF. Spray baking sheet with nonstick spray. Combine cane syrup, cane sugar, and salt in a medium bowl; stir to blend. Add pecans; stir gently to coat. Transfer to baking sheet.

2. Place a large piece of foil on work surface. Bake pecans 5 minutes. Using fork, stir pecans to evenly coat with the melted sugar mixture. Continue baking until the pecans are golden and the coating bubbles, 10 to 15 minutes.

3. Transfer the nuts to the foil and separate them with a fork. Cool. Store in an airtight container at room temperature, up to 3 days. 

Weekend Round-up

 

Is it really Friday already?! This week flew for me - my in-laws were visiting, my son's football team played (and won) their championship game, and I've been restoring my computer ever so slowly back to its previous state. But it's the end of the week and all I want to do this weekend is make stuff! I can't wait.

Hopefully I'll have some new things to share with you next week. But in the meantime, here's a little round-up of my wanderings over the last week.

 

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These beautiful red Bartlett pears sat on my counter all week. I keep planning to eat them, but I've been enjoying the color instead. This weekend, they may finally make their way into a pear salad.

I've started testing recipes for holiday gifts and I made my second batch of caramels this week (the first batch tasted great, but there must have been a typo in the recipe because my cooking temp was way too high and I ended up with a hard brick of candy that had to be tossed). But I found this recipe and it's a keeper!  There are a lot of notes on technique and cooking temperatures, which I found very helpful. There are also some seasonal variations included, such as gingerbread flavored caramels.

I received a pre-lit tree this week from Tree Classics.  I never thought I'd say this about any artificial tree, but I love it! I'll post about it more later, but if you've decided to go the artificial route, this is the week to do it. Tree Classics is having a huge sale through November 18, with up to 50% off and free shipping.  I have the 7 1/2 foot Kennedy Fir with 600 clear lights. It's slim, incredibly realistic, and proportioned for showing off ornaments.  I'm a convert! 

Do you have two decorating personalities?  I certainly do, especially at Christmas time. My computer woes haven't kept me from being a pinning fiend this week. You can see lots of holiday ideas at my two Pinterest boards, Winter Holiday and Colorful Christmas.

But before I get too far ahead of myself, I love these wishbones from Lucky Break. Perfect for the Thanksgiving table (or anytime you want to indulge in wish making). 

I'm sort of the unofficial birthday baker for our friends and I've nailed down most of their favorites. But I've always been a bit thrown when someone requests German Chocolate cupcakes and they want them to taste like the original cake. The Kraft kitchen finally has a recipe on their site and it's really easy and tastes just like the cake (minus the several layers).  I used 1 batch of Coconut Pecan filling for 24 cupcakes which I found to be just the right amount. They were perfect - I'll be making these over and over again. (The only note: All of my cupcakes were baked between 18-23 minutes, so start checking earlier than the recipe calls for.)

Have a wonderful weekend!  

 

Friday Cocktail: The Hurricane

It's Friday and I've managed to post four times this week (I am on a roll!) - both good reasons to have a cocktail. With Tropical Storm Karen due to pay us a visit this weekend,  I thought I might as well make it a Hurricane.

The Hurricane is one of those cocktails synonymous with New Orleans, but I know very few locals who drink them. The sickly sweet, brightly colored cocktails found on the tourist path are one of the quickest routes to a hangover. But my husband and I both thought there wasn't any reason that a Hurricane couldn't be good - it just needed a makeover, with better ingredients.

He won a cocktail competition with this version, redolent of passion fruit and rum, rounded out by a few drops of Black Strap Molasses bitters. The resulting cocktail is a more grown-up version, fruity and complex rather than simply sweet. It helps, too, that it contains Zacapa, one of my favorite rums.

The passion fruit flavor comes from a homemade syrup rather than the bottled versions that are generally available and the difference is discernable. Most prepared passion fruit syrups on the market are too heavy and sweet. The good news is that the passion fruit concentrate we use is readily available by mail order and yields a bright, fresh flavor that's useful for more than this cocktail. I highly recommend it.

Cheers!  Have a great weekend.

 

Hurricane:

1 1/2 ounces Bacardi white rum

1 1/2 ounces Zacapa rum

2 ounces passion fruit syrup (see recipe below)

1 ounce fresh lime juice

1 ounce fresh orange juice

1 teaspoon grenadine (see recipe below)

3 drops Bittercube Blackstrap Bitters

Shake all ingredients (except the Blackstrap Bitters) in an ice-filled cocktail shaker; strain into a Hurricane glass filled with ice. Add 3 drops Blackstrap Bitters and stir to combine. Garnish with a cherry and an orange slice.

Passion Fruit Syrup:

4 ounces Maguary pure passion fruit concentrate 
2 ounces water
3/4 cup sugar 

Place all ingredients in a small saucepan and bring just to a boil; stir to dissolve sugar. Remove from heat and set aside to cool. Transfer to a glass bottle and refrigerate. 

 

Homemade Grenadine:

1 Quart POM Pomegranate Juice
1 1/2 cups sugar
3 ounces Pomegranate Molasses
2 teaspoons orange flower water
1 ounce vodka (used as a preservative, if you'll be storing the grenadine longer than 1 week) 

Simmer POM until reduced by half.  Add sugar, stir until dissolved, then add the pomegranate molasses, orange flower water, and vodka (if you're not using all of your grenadine at once). 

Slow Cooker Pulled Pork

I admit it, I've been a complete snob about the slow cooker. It doesn't fit in with my "romantic" notion of cooking, with the cast iron pot simmering on the stove for hours, my husband and I working in the kitchen together stirring up something good...However, our weeknights have been anything but romantic, so I've tabled those fantasy cooking scenarios for Sundays, when we're all a little more relaxed and actually all in the house at the same time, and I finally unpacked the slow cooker that stayed in its box for 6 months simply because I couldn't give in.

I purchased the cookbook, Slow Cooker Revolution, mostly because I've been able to trust Cook's Illustrated in all things culinary and this cookbook is produced by the same team, America's Test Kitchen. I've only made two recipes from the book so far, but neither has disappointed, giving me new enthusiasm to continue my exploration. Even my husband, as reluctant as I, has proclaimed himself a convert.

With fall's arrival, Shredded Barbecued Beef (p. 143) and North Carolina Pulled Pork have been just right on my son's game nights. Quick and easy to prep, great flavor, and leftovers for the next day's lunch.  What's not to love?  

North Carolina Pulled Pork
Serves 6-8

Prep Time: 8 to 24 hours for rub
Cooking Time:  9-11 hours on Low or 5-7 hours on High

6 tablespoons dark brown sugar
1/4 cup sweet paprika
2 tablespoons chili powder
1 tablespoon ground cumin
Salt and pepper
5-pound boneless pork butt roast, trimmed of fat and quartered
3 smoked ham hocks, rinsed
2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1 cup cider vinegar
3/4 cup ketchup
1 1/2 teaspoons liquid smoke

1. Combine 3 tablespoons sugar, paprika, chili powder, cumin, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1 tablespoon pepper in bowl. Using fork, prick pork all over and rub the sugar mixture over the pork. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 8 to 24 hours.  

2. Place ham hocks in slow cooker. Unwrap pork and place on top of hocks. Pour broth over pork, cover, and cook until the pork is tender, 9 to 11 hours on low or 5 to 7 hours on high.

3. Transfer pork and hocks to large bowl. Let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces (don't shred meat too finely since it will break up more as the meat is combined with the sauce) discarding skin, bones, and excess fat; cover to keep warm. Let braising liquid settle for 5 minutes, then remove fat from surface using large spoon.

4. Strain liquid into medium saucepan and simmer until thickened and measures 1 cup, 20 to 30 minutes. Whisk in vinegar, ketchup, liquid smoke, and remaining 3 tablespoons sugar and bring to simmer. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

5. Toss shredded pork with 1 1/2 cups sauce; add more sauce as needed to keep meat moist. Serve with remaining sauce. 

 

P.S.  Do you have any favorite slow cooker recipes you're willing to share?

Mexican Street Corn Salad

When I lived in New York, any time I found myself in SoHo I would make the stop at Cafe Habana's takeout window for their Mexican-style corn on a stick. Juggling shopping bags, I would eat it on the way to the subway, already plotting my next visit. I knew it wasn't a pleasure confined to a restaurant, but it didn't seem all that practical to make at home either - and somehow, the idea of taking the corn off the cob just didn't occur to me. 

When a friend made this salad for July 4th, I knew it was a recipe I'd make over and over. It's bright and fresh with cilantro and lime juice, yet smoky with the slightly charred corn and chili powder, The salty tang of Cotija cheese pulls it all together. For the closest relative to street corn, serve the salad just after you make it, while it's still warm. But it's also great at room temperature, making it an easy potluck dish. I would tell you whether it's good cold, but I wouldn't know. There's never enough left.

 

Mexican Street Corn Salad

4 tablespoons vegetable oil
8 large ears fresh corn, shucked, kernels removed (about 6 cups)
Kosher salt
4 tablespoons mayonnaise
4 ounces Cotija cheese, finely crumbled (plus more to sprinkle on top)
1 cup cilantro leaves, finely chopped
1 cup finely sliced green onions (scallions), green part only 
2 jalapeno peppers, seeded and finely diced
3 medium cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2 - 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice (approximately 2 limes, depending on size)
Chili powder to taste

Heat oil in a large cast-iron skillet (or a non-stick skillet) over high heat until shimmering. Add the corn kernels, season with salt to taste, and toss the corn in the pan, cooking it until it begins to brown (about 10 minutes). Remove from heat and transfer to a large bowl.

Add mayonnaise, cheese, cilantro, green onion, jalapeno, garlic, lime juice, and chili powder. Toss to combine. Add additional salt and chili powder if needed. 

Serve immediately or at room temperature, sprinkling the top with additional Cotija cheese and chili powder.

 

Lemon Verbena Custard

 

If I could have only one herb in my garden, I suspect I'd choose lemon verbena. It's hardly the most practical of the bunch, but I think it's certainly the most delightful. In the past I've used it to make syrups, ice cream, or cocktails, but this year one of my (favorite) cookbooks fell open to this recipe and I thought it was time to try something new. I'm so glad I did, because this may be my favorite verbena recipe so far.

The custard has to be prepared in advance, though much of the time is chilling time. What you're rewarded with is the purest of pleasures in a 4 ounce cup - and 4 ounces is exactly the right amount because it's deceptively rich, even though it tastes like summer in a spoon.

It's perfection served as is, but if you're going to accompany it with anything, I'd suggest raspberries (lightly tossed in a lemon verbena syrup, perhaps?) or a thin, crispy cookie such as a florentine or tuile. Anything else would be overkill. 

If you're not lucky enough to have lemon verbena available, make a note to grow it next spring. I'm usually able to find starter pots of it at my farmers market or one of the better nurseries in my area, but I've also purchased starter plants online and had a great deal of success with those as well - and they don't require much care, beyond the basic watering and plenty of sun. Perfect for those like me, with the not-so-green thumb!

 

Lemon Verbena Custards
adapted from The Last Course by Claudia Fleming with Melissa Clark
Makes 6

1 cup heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
1 ounce (1 cup packed) roughly chopped fresh lemon verbena leaves
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
1 large egg
3 large egg yolks

1. In a heavy saucepan, combine the milk, cream, lemon verbena, and 1/2 cup of the sugar. Bring the mixture to a simmer.

2. In a large bowl, whisk the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar with the egg and egg yolks until smooth. Turn off the heat under the cream mixture and whisk about 1/4 cup of the cream into the egg mixture to temper it, whisking constantly to keep the eggs from curdling.  Pour the egg mixture into the saucepan with the remaining cream, whisking the mixture constantly. Strain the mixture into a bowl and chill for at least 2 hours and up to 2 days.

3. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Pour the custard into six 4-ounce glass or ceramic ramekins. Arrange them in a baking pan and place it on the oven rack. Pour enough very hot water into the baking pan to reach two-thirds of the way up the sides of the ramekins. Cover the baking pan with foil and pierce all over with a knife. Bake the custards for about 30 minutes, then lift off a corner of the foil to allow the steam to escape. Re-cover the pan and continue to bake until the custards are set around the edges but still slightly jiggly in the center, 10 to 15 minutes longer. Transfer the custards to a rack and let cool at room temperature, then cover and refrigerate overnight before serving.

*If you wish to unmold your custards, run a small knife around the sides of the ramekins, then invert the custards onto dessert plates.

 

Friday Evening Cocktail: Bramble

Lazy.  That's been my M.O. this summer. At the end of the day, my head is still popping with things I want to make, learn, and do, but more often than not, all of that latent passion is met with a stifled yawn, a cocktail, and a quick retreat into television series I've missed (so far this summer, I've seen the first seasons of House of Cards, Scandal, and Rectify). The busy days of fall will come soon enough. 

Because I've been so lazy, my cocktails have been pretty simple as well. One of my all-time favorites of summer is my husband's Blackberry Smash, and while I'll continue to ook forward to it every season, I've discovered another cocktail that offers me almost as much pleasure with a fraction of the labor. It's just four ingredients - gin, fresh lemon juice, some simple syrup, and a drizzle of crème de mûre, a blackberry flavored liqueur, over crushed ice (essential for optimal dilution). 

It's lovely and you'll want to drink bunches of them (even if you don't consider yourself a gin drinker), so pace yourself.  

Cheers!

 

Bramble:

2 ounces dry gin (I prefer Plymouth)
1 ounce fresh lemon juice
1/2 ounce simple syrup (see below)
1/2 ounce crème de mûre (blackberry liqueur)

In an ice-filled cocktail shaker, shake together the gin, lemon juice, and simple syrup; strain into a rocks glass filled with crushed ice. Drizzle the crème de mûre over the top of the ice. Garnish with a short straw, blackberries, a lemon wedge, or both.

Simple Syrup - Combine 1 cup sugar and 1 cup water in a small saucepan; stir to combine. Bring just to a boil, stir to dissolve the sugar, then remove from the heat and cool before using. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

 

Note:

I crush ice in what's called a Lewis bag, a heavy canvas bag, and a wooden mallet. But you can improvise if you don't have such tools handy - wrap ice cubes in a clean dish towel and crush them with a meat tenderizer or something heavy.

 

Pasta Salad with Feta and Mint

Pasta salad isn't a particularly sexy concept, more a staple of potlucks than gourmet fare. But a good pasta salad, that's something to have tucked into your back pocket for impromptu summer gatherings. I encountered this pasta salad at a pool party, in a potluck setting, but I turned around and made a batch two days later, the intriguing addition of mint having captivated my palate. 

This is a great dish to bring to a gathering or keep on hand for a quick lunch or light supper. It's not at all "minty," but robustly flavored. In short, it's a keeper. 

 

Pasta Salad with Feta and Mint

1 pound fusilli pasta
1/3 cup finely chopped fresh mint
2 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons white wine vinegar
4 teaspoons chopped garlic
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
1/2 cup olive oil
2 2/3 cup chopped plum tomatoes
1 15-16 ounce can garbanzo beans (chickpeas), drained
6 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
Additional chopped fresh mint

 
1. Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water until just tender, but still firm to the bite. Drain and rinse with cold water. Drain again.

2. Combine 1/3 cup mint, lemon juice, vinegar, garlic and lemon zest in a large bowl. Gradually whisk in the olive oil. Add pasta, tomoatoes, garbanzo beans and feta cheese; toss to blend well. Season with salt and pepper.

Let stand at room temperature for 2 hours before serving (or cover and refrigerate overnight, then let stand at room temperature for 1 hour before serving). Before serving, garnish with additional mint.  

Peach Leaf Ice Cream

Things have been quiet around here, but I've been in a groove lately and really focused...on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year's.  Topics none of you could possibly be interested in at this time. However, for me, it's that time of year when the holiday assignments start to swirl, and it's in my best interest to get into a warm and cozy mood. 

But after a fruitful couple of weeks, firmly ensconced in holiday spirit, I'm ready to indulge in a little reminder of summer - like this peach leaf ice cream. In the spring I discovered fig leaf ice cream and I'm more and more intrigued by the concept of using leaves instead of fruit. Who knew that the inside of a peach leaf smells exactly like bitter almond and readily imparts its flavor to any custard based dessert? Well, obviously someone knew, but I didn't!

This ice cream is as easy to make as any other ice cream and the infusion is quick. In fact, steep the leaves too long and the bitter part of the almond flavor will take over. Something I should mention - perception of bitterness is subjective, determined by the number of taste buds you're born with. My husband and I once took a chemical test to determine our sensitivity to bitterness. He was a non-taster, meaning he can handle the most bitterness, and I was a super taster, meaning that I'm very sensitive to bitterness (which is probably why I need a little sugar in my coffee to take the edge off). So when you're steeping the leaves, start testing the custard base at about 9 minutes and test every minute, up to about 15 minutes. More than that is probably too long (mine was ready at 11 minutes), though I have found recipes that specify 20-25 minutes. Again, it's all about personal taste. You want to get right to the edge of the bitterness, without it overtaking the almond flavor. Other than that, it's a pretty basic recipe.  

Of course you have to find peach leaves if you don't have a peach tree available to you. If you frequent a farmer's market, ask a peach vendor if they'll bring some young, fresh leaves for you next time they're at the market. You'll need 10-12 per batch of ice cream. 

What to eat it with?  I like to eat it by itself, but I have a feeling it would be an amazing accompaniment to a peach crisp! You can also try it with a peach compote, fresh berries, or a nectarine upside down cake. 

 

Peach Leaf Ice Cream

adapted from Sweet Cream and Sugar Cones
 

1 3/4 cups heavy cream
3/4 cup 2% milk
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
10-12 fresh peach leaves (unsprayed or organic), rinsed and patted dry
5 large yolks

1. Infuse the Milk/Cream:

In a heavy nonreactive saucepan, stir together the cream, milk, 1/4 cup sugar, and the salt.  Put the pan over medium-high heat. Gently make tears along the edges of the leaf to help release the flavor and add them to the pan.  When the mixture just begins to bubble around the edges, remove from the heat and cover the pan. Steep the leaves for 9-15 minutes, or until you detect a mellow bitter almond flavor. (Taste it to monitor the progress; the mixture will become bitter if oversteeped.) Remove the leaves and cover the cream mixture.

2. Make the base:

In a heatproof bowl, lightly whisk the egg yolks to break them up, then whisk in the remaining 1/4 cup sugar. Set aside.

Uncover the cream mixture and put the pan over medium-high heat. When the mixture approaches a bare simmer, reduce the heat to medium.

Remove about 1/2 cup of the hot cream mixture (a ladle is helpful), and, whisking the yolks constantly, slowly and steadily pour the cream into the bowl with the egg mixture. Using a heatproof rubber spatula, stir the cream in the saucepan as you slowly pour the egg-and-cream mixture from the bowl into the pan. 

Cook the mixture carefully over medium heat, stirring constantly, until it is thickened, coats the back of a spatula, and holds a clear path when you run your finger across the spatula, 1 to 2 minutes longer.

Strain the base through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean container. Set the container into an ice-water bath, stirring occasionally until it is cool. Remover from the ice-water bath, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate the base for at least 2 hours or overnight.

Freeze in your ice cream machine according to manufacturer's instructions. Transfer to a chilled container and freeze for at least 4 hours to firm it up.

Pimm's Cup

It's the first day of summer and a Friday, so I can't think of anything more appropriate than starting the weekend with a Pimm's Cup. The Pimm's Cup is somewhat synonymous with New Orleans, but it's actually an English cocktail, created during the mid-1800s. However, New Orleanians have adopted it with such fervor that it may as well be our own. It's low in alcohol and just the antidote for the sweltering heat. 

The following recipe is my husband's slight variation on the classic. He adds a strawberry to the mix and it makes me even happier than the original, so I thought I'd share. But a word of warning - these go down quickly and your guests will most certainly ask for another!

 

Pimm's Cup:

2 ounces Pimm's No. 1
2 strawberries
3 slices cucumber
3/4 ounce freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 ounce simple syrup
2 ounces 7-up

In a cocktail shaker, muddle 1 strawberry and 2 slices cucumber with the lemon juice. Add the Pimm's, simple syrup, and ice. Shake well, then strain into a cocktail glass. Top with the 7-up; stir to combine. Garnish with the remaining strawberry and cucumber slice. 

Simple Syrup:  Bring 1 cup sugar and 1 cup water just to boil; stir to dissolve sugar, then remove from heat. After it's cooled, it can be refrigerated for several months.