Urban Comfort

Pot Roasted Short Ribs with Spinach and Potato Puree

 

This is one of my favorite dinner recipes. We make it maybe once a year, always in the winter, and I find it deeply satisfying every time. It's easy enough for a family gathering, nice enough to serve for a dinner party.

The short ribs get both roasted and braised, so you'll need a roasting pan and a pot that can go in the oven (we use a cast iron Dutch oven). The potatoes are also put through a potato ricer to give them a silky texture, which I find a nicer complement to the short ribs than just mashing the potatoes. Other than that, the techniques and equipment required are pretty basic, the results anything but!

Pot Roasted Short Ribs
(Serves 6-8)
 

6 to 7 1/2 pounds flanken short ribs
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 medium carrot, thinly sliced
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 1/2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups beef stock or broth, heated
1 bay leaf
3 fresh thyme sprigs

1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Pat short ribs dry and season with salt and pepper.

2. Arrange short ribs, meaty sides up, on a rack set in a shallow roasting pan and roast 45 minutes. Remove from oven and reduce temperature to 350 degrees. Transfer ribs to a plate and transfer 3 tablespoons drippings (augment with oil if not enough) to a 6-to-8-Quart heavy ovenproof pot, reserving roasting pan. Heat drippings over moderate heat, until hot but not smoking, and cook garlic, carrot, and sliced onion, stirring, until onion is golden. Reduce heat to moderately low. Stir in flour and cook, stirring constantly, 1 minute. Add 1 3/4 cups hot stock in a slow stream, stirring constantly until well combined. Add remaining 1/4 cup stock to reserved roasting pan and deglaze over moderately high heat, scraping up any brown bits. Add to pot with ribs, bay leaf, and thyme.

3. Put pot in lower third of oven and cook ribs, uncovered, 5 minutes. Turn ribs over, then cook, covered, about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours more, or until meat is tender and pulls away from the bone. Let beef stand, covered, 15 minutes. 

4. Transfer ribs to a plate and keep warm, covered. Pour gravy through a sieve set into a saucepan and skim off any fat. If necessary, simmer gravy until thickedned, then season with salt and pepper.

5. Place short ribs on a mound of potato puree with a little of the gravy. Top with spinach and horseradish cream.

Potato Puree:

1 1/2 pound Russet (baking) potatoes
1 1/4 pound Yukon Gold potatoes
3/4 cup whole milk
3/4 cup heavy cream
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into pieces

Cover potatoes with salted cold water by 1 inch in a 6-8 quart saucepan. Simmer potatoes, uncovered, until tender, about 25 minutes. Drain in a colander and cool 15 minutes, then peel while still very warm. Heat milk and cream until warm in a large heavy saucepan over low heat, then force peeled potatoes through ricer into pan. Add butter, a few pieces at a time, stirring until incorporated before adding next few pieces. Season puree with salt and keep warm, covered.

Spinach:

3 tablespoons olive oil
4 medium shallots, thinly sliced
15 ounces baby spinach

Heat oil in a cleaned 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then saute shallots, stirring, until golden, about 4 minutes. Add spinach and saute, stirring, until just wilted, about 2 minutes. Season with salt.

Horseradish Cream:

1/2 cup creme fraiche
1 tablespoon drained bottled horseradish, or to taste

Stir together creme fraiche and horseradish. Top each dish with a dollop of horseradish cream. 

 

 

Monkey Cake

My husband requested a very Southern cake for his birthday, the Hummingbird Cake. I've eaten it numerous times over the years, but it's not in my baking repertoire, so it was time to take the plunge.

I made the cake layers from a traditional recipe and sensed right away that it would be drier and denser than what I wanted, which I confirmed after it cooled. It's possible that I baked it a couple of minutes longer than I should have, so I'll not fault the recipe. But it gave me an opportunity to make the version from The Sweeter Side of Amy's Bread, which she calls Monkey Cake, having "monkeyed around" with the ingredient proportions of the traditional Hummingbird Cake.

I'm happy to say that it was a great cake. It had the rich density and moistness that I expect from the original, but in two layers instead of three. (I suspect that the Hummingbird usually has three layers because it needs the extra frosting to make the cake moister).  At any rate, enough already.  This recipe's a keeper.

 

Monkey Cake
Adapted from The Sweeter Side of Amy's Bread

2 3/4 cups (390 grams) unbleached, all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 3/4 cups (350 grams) granulated sugar
1 1/4 cups (268 grams) canola oil
3 large eggs (150 grams - out of the shell)
1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
2 cups (436 grams) ripe, mashed bananas (with small chunks remaining)
8 ounce can crushed pineapple, with juice (not syrup)
1 cup coarsely chopped pecans

Cream Cheese Frosting
1/2 cup finely chopped pecans for the top (optional)

 

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Grease two 9-inch cake pans. Line the bottoms with rounds of baking parchment, grease, then dust lightly with flour. Shake out excess.

2. In the bowl of an electric mixer with a paddle attachment, combine the flour, salt, baking soda, and cinnamon and stir briefly on low speed, to distribute the ingredients. In a separate bowl, whisk together the sugar, oil, eggs, and vanilla until they are well combined. Add the liquid ingredients to the dry ingredients and mix on medium-low speed, just until all the flour has been moistened (less than 20 seconds).

3. Add the bananas and pineapple and stir briefly on low speed to distribute them evenly, about 20 seconds. Then add pecans and mix on low speed, just until combined, scraping the sides and bottom of bowl as needed. Don't overmix the batter or the cake will be tough.

4. Divide the batter equally between the two prepared cake pans (pans should be about half-full). Place the pans on the center rack of the preheated oven and bake for 35 to 38 minutes, or until the cake is almost ready to pull away from the sides of the pan and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out with a few moist crumbs.

5. Cool the pans on a rack for 10 minutes, then invert them onto a wire rack that's been sprayed with cooking spray and lift off the pans. Cool them completely on the rack. Remove the parchment liner.

6. Frost with cream cheese frosting; then sprinkle the top with 1/2 cup finely chopped pecans. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator, but allow it to sit at room temperature for about an hour before serving.

 

***NOTE: I weighed my ingredients when making this cake and I'm glad I did. I had to add extra egg and take out a little of the flour, both of which would have had an impact on the texture of the cake. I'll say it again - it's actually easier to weigh ingredients than measure and ensures better results. Check this previous post for a scale that's inexpensive and stores easily.

You can also weigh your pans when the batter's in them to ensure your layers are the same size and bake evenly.

One other note: It's not necessary to have a standing mixer for this recipe. You can mix it by hand, if necessary, as the traditional recipe calls for.

 

CREAM CHEESE FROSTING:

1 lb. cream cheese
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 lb. confectioners' sugar, sifted
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 

In the bowl of a standing mixer, beat cream cheese and butter until smooth. Add half of the sifted confectioners' sugar and beat until well combined. Add the rest of the sugar and beat until smooth. Add vanilla extract and mix until combined.

Not Your Usual Nogs

Last week we had Tales of the Toddy here in New Orleans, a smaller counterpart to the much-anticipated Tales of the Cocktail that occurs in the summer.

The challenge this year was to create a nog using bourbon instead of the usual spirits. The winning cocktail, a tiki-inspired nog, was created by a friend of ours, and he graciously gave me the recipe to share. I also thought the two nogs that tied for second place sounded good (though I've not tried them), so I've included them as well.

Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy Hanukkah!

 

BLUE HAWAIIAN NOG
by Chris Hannah, French 75 at Arnaud's Restaurant 
(makes 12 servings) 

12 large eggs
1 cup half-and-half
1 cup sugar
12 ounces bourbon (Buffalo Trace was used)
1 1/4 cups pineapple-banana cream (see below)
17 drops blue food coloring (I used 12 of McCormick Neon Blue to get the color shown in the photo)
3 Tablespoons freshly ground nutmeg

In a blender, combine the eggs, half-and-half, sugar, bourbon, pineapple-banana cream, food coloring, and 4 1/2 teaspoons freshly grated nutmeg. Blend well.

Before serving, add the mixture (in batches) to a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake and strain over two ice-filled old-fashioned glasses. Garnish with pineapple slices and the rest of the ground nutmeg. (Chris prefers that you add a plastic palm tree as well.)

Pineapple-Banana Cream:

1 medium pineapple
1 1/2 large bananas
1 1/2 cups half-and-half

Puree together in a food processor or blender.

 

Pumpkin Trace
by Ian Julian, Vitascope Bar in the Hyatt Regency

1 1/2 ounce Buffalo Trace Bourbon
3/4 ounce Pumpkin Spice Syrup (available in some liquor and coffee shops, also online)
1/4 ounce DiSaronno Amaretto
2 1/2 ounces good quality eggnog 

Build all ingredients into an ice-filled shaker. Shake, and strain into a glass with no ice and top with roasted pumpkin seed as a garnish.

 

Nog I Yam
by Steven Yamada, Victory Bar

1/2 ounce Benchmark Bourbon
3 ounces Sweet Potato Eggnog
1 ounces Spiced Marshmallow Fluff

Sweet Potato Puree: Peel a sweet potato and slice into medium thick pieces.  Place on baking sheet and cover with 2 tablespoons of salt and 1 cup of Dark Brown Sugar.  Gently toss and then bake at 350 F for about 15-20 minutes or until potatoes are soft.  Add all chunks of sweet potato and any juice into a food processor and thoroughly puree.

Sweet Potato Eggnog: Combine 3 whole eggs plus 1 egg yolk in medium saucepan and beat thoroughly with whisk.  Set burner to lowest setting and, while stirring, add 2 cups whole milk, 1/2 cup sugar, and 1 cup Sweet Potato Puree.  Continue to stir for about 20 minutes or until mixture reaches 160 F.  Bottle and refrigerate overnight.

Spiced Marshmallow Fluff: Beat 3 egg whites, 1 cup light corn syrup, and 1/2 teaspoon salt for about 10 minutes or until thick.  Turn mixer speed to low and slowly add 2 cups confectioner's sugar.  Then add 1 tablespoon of Cardamom/Ginger Simple Syrup.

Nog I Yam: Combine Sweet Potato Eggnog and Bourbon.  Top with Marshmallow Fluff.  Lightly scorch fluff with a small torch.

Serve straight up.

Old Fashioned Sugar Cookies

Before my son was born, I used to make fancy oversized sugar cookies that I piped and flooded and flocked. It was fun and labor-intensive and gratifying, not to mention delicious. But I'm more realistic now and I simply don't have the time or inclination to do that anymore.

My son, however, is a full-fledged cookie addict and there's nothing he loves more than rolling out the dough, cutting the shapes, and decorating with sprinkles. In fact, the kind of decorating I remember my grandmother doing over the holidays. We went back to that this year, and unlike their more elaborate counterparts, we were able to make dozens in an evening. We gifted them to classmates and friends, and filled our cookie jar as well.

Sugar Cookies:

1 1/2 cups unsalted butter, softened slightly
2 cups granulated white sugar
4 large eggs
1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
5 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt

1. In a standing mixer, cream the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs and vanilla extract.

2. Combine the flour, baking powder, and salt in a bowl; gradually add to the batter, mixing on low speed.

3. Wrap dough and chill, at least one hour.

4. Preheat oven to 400 degrees Farenheit. Roll the dough out on a well-floured board (1/4-inch for crispier cookies, 1/2-inch for shortbread like cookies); cut out shapes with cookie cutters, and transfer to an ungreased cookie sheet. Place the cookie sheet in the refrigerator for about 10 minutes before baking.

5. Bake for 6 to 9 minutes. Let sit on pans for a minute or two, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. 

Frosting:  Mix confectioners' sugar with whole milk and fresh lemon juice, to a consistency that's thin enough to brush onto the tops of the cookies, but won't run off. Using a pastry brush, brush the tops of cookies with the frosting, immediately add sprinkles, then set aside to dry for about 30 minutes before packaging.

 

For a simple packaging idea, visit me on Momster today.

 

Eggnog Custard

I've been craving eggnog, but not in liquid form. Instead, I wanted something like a custard or panna cotta. I settled on panna cotta, figuring it would be less labor-intensive than the eggnog custard I usually make. 

I found this recipe on Cooking San Francisco. It was a quick and easy preparation (I didn't bother with the accompaniments they listed on their site) and ready to eat after four hours of refrigeration.

However, I have to take issue with it being defined as a panna cotta. In fact, the creamy texture of it feels much closer to a custard (I suspect it's the addition of the Greek yogurt). But while I quibble with the definition, I was very happy with the outcome.  I love custard. I'm just too lazy to cook it on occasion. This recipe is the bridge between my desire and my laziness.

 

Eggnog Custard (or Panna Cotta)

2 teaspoons gelatin powder 
2 tablespoons cold water
2 1/2 cups good quality eggnog
2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 tablespoon cognac, brandy or bourbon (optional)
1 cup thick Greek yogurt, plain

1. In a small bowl, sprinkle gelatin over water and let sit for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, warm the eggnog and sugar together in a saucepan over medium-low heat. When the sugar has dissolved and the eggnog is hot but not bubbling, remove the saucepan from the heat and add the nutmeg, vanilla and liquor, if using.

2. Add the dissolving gelatin while the eggnog mixture is still warm and whisk together to ensure that gelatin has completely dissolved.

3. Set the eggnog aside until it has cooled to lukewarm (you can transfer the mixture to a heat-proof 8 cup liquid measure, which helps the liquid cool down faster and makes it easier to pour into serving cups).

4. Add the yogurt to cooled eggnog mixture and whisk to blend completely. Pour liquid into 6 ounce martini or wine glasses, ramekins, tea cups or other decorative dessert cup.

5. Allow it to set in the refrigerator for 4 hours or until firm. 

Prep Time: 15 minutes
Refrigerator Time: 4 hours

Serves 6

 

**See the original recipe here.

 

Snickerdoodles

Snickerdoodles are one of those simple, homey cookies I like to make in the fall. Their flavor is delicate and subtle, but the texture makes them distinctive. Crispy at the edges, getting chewier as you work your way in. It's the cookie for those who can't make up their mind whether they're a crispy cookie person or a chewy one. Like myself.

 

Snickerdoodles
(adapted from The All-American Cookie Book by Nancy Baggett)

2 2/3 cup all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons cream of tartar
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, slightly softened
1 3/4 cups granulated sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons light corn syrup
2 large eggs
2 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1/2 cup sugar, combined with 1 Tablespoon ground cinnamon, for topping

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F, with the baking rack set in the upper third of the oven. Line a baking sheet with parchment or a Silpat liner.

In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the flour, cream of tartar, baking soda, salt, and nutmeg; set aside. In another large bowl, with an electric mixer on medium speed, beat together the butter, sugar, and corn syrup until well blended and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add the eggs and vanilla and beat until well blended and smooth. Beat in half of the flour mixture until evenly incorporated. Stir in the remaining flour mixture until evenly incorporated. Let the dough stand for 5 to 10 minutes, or until firmed up slightly. Put the cinnamon-sugar in a shallow bowl.

Roll portions of the dough into generous 1 1/2-inch balls with lightly greased hands (dough will be soft). Roll each ball in the cinnamon-sugar. Place on the baking sheet, spacing about 3 inches apart. Using your hand, slightly pat down the tops of the balls.

Bake the cookies, one sheet at a time, in the upper third of the oven for 8 to 11 minutes, or until just light golden brown at the edges. Reverse the sheet from front to back halfway through baking to ensure even browning. Transfer the sheet to a wire rack and let stand until the cookies firm up slightly, 1 to 2 minutes. Using a spatula, transfer the cookies to wire racks. Let stand until completely cooled. Let the baking sheets cool between batches to keep the cookies from spreading too much.

Store in an airtight container for up to 10 days or freeze for up to 2 months. 

 

Pumpkin Bars

It's fall!  And so begins my annual psychological turning of the seasons (the weather here won't follow suit for at least another month). Somehow it always starts with pumpkin and this year is no exception. I found this recipe from Paula Deen and it was my first step into the new season. They're called pumpkin bars, but it's really more of a pumpkin cake. They're impossibly moist (C'mon, it's Paula Deen, what did you expect?) and have a long shelf life. I've frosted them with cream cheese icing, but I can tell you on good authority that they're quite tasty without it, too. 

Have a great weekend!

Pumpkin Bars
Paula Deen

Ingredients: 

4 large eggs
1 2/3 cups granulated sugar
1 cup vegetable oil
15-ounce can pumpkin
2 cups sifted all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda

Icing:

8-ounce package cream cheese, softened
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
2 cups sifted confectioners' sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Using an electric mixer at medium speed, combine the eggs, sugar, oil and pumpkin until light and fluffy. Stir together the flour, baking powder, cinnamon, salt and baking soda. Add the dry ingredients to the pumpkin mixture and mix at low speed until thoroughly combined and the batter is smooth. Spread the batter into a greased 13-x-10-inch baking pan. Bake for 30 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out almost clean. Let cool completely before frosting. Cut into bars.

To make the icing: Combine the cream cheese and butter in a medium bowl with an electric mixer until smooth. Add the sugar and mix at low speed until combined. Stir in the vanilla and mix again. Spread on cooled pumpkin bars. 

A Cheese Plate

I think if I had to choose a last meal it would come down to sushi or a cheese plate. I suspect the cheese plate would win out in the end because really, it's just pure pleasure served on a plate. But I'm lucky that I don't have to wait for a last meal; I have a fantastic cheese shop within walking distance of my home.

At St. James Cheese Company, every employee is knowledgeable and passionate to the point you feel you're always speaking to the proprietor. I don't even bother making decisions anymore. I tell them I'd like a cheese plate (with three, five, or seven choices) and leave it in their capable hands. I've never been disappointed.

Last week, I had the luxury of a very long lunch of cheese, charcuterie, and wine and I wanted to share the selections they brought for us. Four of the seven were domestic cheeses (which I love!) and I suspect most of them can be found at reputable cheese stores (and if not, ask about them). 

 

Manchego (Spain) - A classic sheep's cheese from Spain (ours was a 6 month-old). Not a surprise for me, but always good. Instead of quince paste, they served it with fresh fig preserves and that was a new experience.

 

Weybridge (Vermont) - A cow's milk farmstead cheese produced by Scholten Family Farm in Weybridge, Vermont. It has a softened rind with nutty, earthy flavors and a tart finish. Semi-creamy with a denser center that contains citrus notes.  I also detected a delicate mushroom aroma to the cheese.  Very, very good! 

 

City of Ships (Maine) - This tangy, semi-hard, raw cow's milk cheese was absolutely delightful and I may never have it again unless I'm in Maine. Produced by Hahn's End Farm, this handmade small-batch cheese is only sold regionally, so I was lucky that one of the employees was visiting and brought some home in his bag.

La Jeaune Autize (France) - An aged, washed rind goat's cheese made in a style similar to Morbier. It's a tangy, earthy cheese with a line of vegetable ash running through its center. It was creamier than I expected it to be from appearance and not too sharp.

 

Green Hill (Georgia) - This soft-ripened cow's milk cheese may have been my favorite of the afternoon. Produced by Sweet Grass Dairy in southern Georgia, it was lush and rich with a buttery creaminess and a sharp tang that gave way to a slight bitterness in the rind. I could have eaten this all day. 

Blue d'Auvergne (France) - A creamy, moist cow's milk blue that was strong and pungent like most blues, but perhaps slightly milder than some I've encountered before. Very nice if you're a blue cheese lover.

 

O'Bannon (Indiana) - This fresh goat's milk cheese from Capriole Farmstead in Greenville, Indiana was a surprise for me, in the very best way. It was dense, almost fudgy, with an unmistakeable fresh, citrusy taste. I'm a big fan of goat cheese anyway, but this was something different. Perhaps it's the fact that they soak chestnut leaves in Woodford Reserve Bourbon before wrapping the cheese. Whatever it is, I'm buying it again!

Black Velvet Cake

My family is fairly obsessed with red velvet cake, so one year I decided to give it a new twist for Halloween. I took my red velvet cake recipe and simply swapped the red food coloring for black. Then I gave my cream cheese frosting a new flavor profile with fresh orange zest and juice. The resulting cake is enough like the original to satisfy my family, but different enough that it's become a yearly treat we look forward to. 

 

Black Velvet Cake: 

2½ cups sifted unleavened cake flour 
3 tablespoons Dutch-processed cocoa powder
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, cool room temp
2 cups granulated sugar
2 large eggs, at room temp
1 large egg yolk, at room temp
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
2 oz. black food coloring (Note: It's possible 1 oz. will suffice, but only if it's a high quality food coloring. Otherwise, it might be more of a charcoal gray)
3 Tablespoons lukewarm water
1 cup lowfat buttermilk, at room temperature
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

 

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Lightly coat two 9-inch round cake pans with vegetable shortening.  Insert parchment paper cut to fit the bottom of the pans and lightly coat the paper with shortening, then dust with flour.

2. In a large bowl, sift together the cake flour, cocoa, and baking powder and set aside.

3. In a standing mixer, set on medium speed, beat together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy.  Beat in the eggs and egg yolk one at a time, beating well after each addition.  Beat in the vanilla and salt.  Beat in the red food coloring, then the water, using a rubber spatula to scrape down the sides of the bowl, until well blended.

4.  Using the lowest speed, beat in the flour mixture alternately with the buttermilk, for a total of 4 additions, ending with buttermilk and blending well.  In a glass measuring cup, dissolve the baking soda in the vinegar.  Pour in and beat on medium speed until just blended, about 10 seconds, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed.  Do not overbeat.  Turn into the prepared cake pans.

5. Bake on the middle oven rack until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out almost clean, 30-35 minutes.

6. Let the cake cool completely in the pans on a wire rack, then turn out and frost with orange cream cheese frosting.

Orange Cream Cheese Frosting:

2 8-oz. packages cream cheese, softened
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
2 Tablespoons fresh orange juice
2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 pound confectioners' sugar, sifted
            

1.  Blend the cream cheese, butter, orange juice, orange zest, and vanilla in a large bowl, using an electric mixer set at medium speed, until smooth. 

2.  Add the sugar and continue to beat until light and creamy – about 3 more minutes. 

 

Note:  There is a Black Velvet cake recipe that accompanies my feature in Better Homes and Gardens, but it is a different version that their test kitchen came up with. I will have to try their recipe. If I like it better than mine, I'll be back to let you know!

Tomorrow, I'll post a playlist of songs to accompany this type of Halloween gathering.

 

Title photo by Monica Buck 

 

Coming and Going (plus Fried Catfish)

I was in Des Moines, Iowa last week working on a photo shoot for the December issue of Better Homes and Gardens. When I wasn't being wined and dined by the exceptionally lovely women of Meredith Publications, I spent the bulk of my time in their in-house photography studio, which was incredible! There were multiple shoots going on at the same time and it was a lot of fun to peek into the various sets. If I lived in Des Moines, I'd definitely want to be an intern there. 

I also had my first experience shooting video, which was fun and nerve-wracking at the same time. Now, at least, I can cross it off my "life's most dreaded experiences" list. I had a great team with me, which helped immensely. But the experience gave me a new appreciation for people who spend most of their time on-camera. It's not easy to hit your mark, remember what you want to say, keep smiling, look at the camera, and not look like a complete fool all at the same time.  

I returned home just in time to prepare for Tropical Storm Lee, which (thankfully) was mostly a non-event for New Orleans, and round two of super virus for my son, which he thoughtfully passed on to my husband and I.  Still, we managed to squeeze in a good meal before all hell broke loose. 

Fried catfish, potato salad, and blueberry pudding cake were on the menu. We have a deep fryer, which makes frying an absolute breeze, and I use the same type of fish fry that my grandmother always used - light as air, so that the coating is thin, delicate, and crisp.  I can't imagine it any other way. It doesn't get greasy and it's just as good cold.  The potato salad is my grandmother's as well. Nothing fancy, but supremely satisfying.

Hope everyone had a wonderful Labor Day weekend!

Fried Catfish:
(This recipe calls for filets, but you can also cut your catfish into smaller pieces or long, thin strips) 

Vegetable oil
1 cup yellow cornmeal
1/2 cup flour
Zest of 2 lemons
3 tablespoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
1 tablespoon garlic salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Freshly ground black pepper
8 catfish filets

1.  Pour oil into a large, deep cast-iron or heavy-bottomed skillet to a depth of 3 inches and heat over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking, 350-360 degrees on a candy thermometer. 

2.  Meanwhile, put the lemon zest, 3 Tbsp. salt, and ½ tsp. peppercorns into a coffee grinder and grind together.  Combine cornmeal, flour, seasoned salt and pepper, cayenne, and pepper to taste in a large shallow dish, then thoroughly dredge catfish filets, gently shaking off excess. 

3.  Working in 2 batches to avoid crowding, fry catfish in the hot oil, without turning, until golden and crisp, 5-6 minutes.  Transfer filets with a slotted spatula to paper towels to drain.  Season to taste with salt, if needed.

 

Potato Salad:
(most ingredients are to taste. Even better after being refrigerated overnight) 

12-15 red potatoes
8 boiled eggs
1/2 cup finely chopped celery
3/4 cup finely chopped onion
Italian parsley
Dry mustard
Mayo
Vinegar (to taste - I use 2 or 3 tablespoons)
Paprika
Salt and pepper 

 

You can find the Blueberry Pudding Cake recipe here.

Green Apple Sorbet

Last night we made Hot-and-Crunchy Chicken Cones for dinner, one of my favorites, and I wanted to balance our meal with a dessert that was summery, bright in flavor and wouldn't weigh us down. We finished off with Green Apple Sorbet, which is easy to prepare and so good!  If you don't have an ice cream maker, use this recipe to make popsicles instead.

 

Green Apple Sorbet

2/3 cup granulated sugar
1/3 cup water
1 (1000 mg.) tablet Vitamin C
2 2/3 lb. Granny Smith apples, cut into 1-in. wedges (no need to peel or seed apples)

 

1.  Simmer sugar and water in a small heavy saucepan, stirring, until sugar is dissolved, then remove from heat. Set aside to cool.

2.  Crush the vitamin C tablet to a powder with a morter & pestle or the back of a spoon and place in a 1-quart container that will fit under the spout of a juicer.

3.  Using an electric juicer, juice apples into container.  Spoon off foam and stir in sugar syrup.  Chill, covered, until cold, at least 1 hour.  

4.  Freeze in ice-cream maker.

Makes 1¼ quart

 

H2O Cocktails

I am, unabashedly, a brown liquor lover. So this year, at New Orleans annual Tales of the Cocktail, I decided to take a seminar that was out of my comfort zone. H2O cocktails, led by Kathy Casey, author of Sips and Apps, focused on mixing different brands of vodka (we started with a tasting of the spirits alone so that we could discover the nuances of each) with waters that were infused with fruit, spices, and herbs. No sugar, no extra mixers, just vodka and water.  Each cocktail contained 1 ounce of vodka, bringing it in at 80 calories. For the vodka lover, light drinker, or weight conscious it's a nice alternative to all of the sugary cocktails that abound. 

Beyond that, I enjoyed the infused waters by themselves. I haven't starting experimenting yet (it generally takes me a day or two to recover from my annual 24 hours of Cocktail festivites), but I can't wait to get started. I learned how to infuse the slow way, as noted in the recipes below, and how to make rapid infusions by using an iSi whipper and two N2O cartridges. After creating an infusion (slow or rapid), you could take it a step further and carbonate it using a device like the Twist 'n Sparkle.   

It's a different way to think about water and a different way to think about cocktails. Maybe I'll always be a bourbon lover, but now I have a something new in my bag of tricks. 

Here are the recipes from Kathy's seminar (also found on her website). Click on the images below to get a full-size version:

 

All photos from Kathy Casey.com

NY: Eating, Drinking, and Carrying On

As much as I love shopping in New York, I really come alive there during the evening hours (though I've come to realize that New Orleans actually stays up later than "the city that never sleeps"). The following is a list of the more memorable places I visited while there (click underlined links for websites):

Mayahuel:  We originally went for the extensive list of tequila and mezcal based cocktails, but I walked away remembering the food most of all (and returning for a follow-up visit).  I had the best fish tacos I've ever eaten, croquetas with chorizo, cheese, and smoked tomato, wonderful tamales...if I lived in New York, I'd be back there every week. Which is not to take away from the cocktails - Of the four we tried, I was only disappointed in one, and that was just the tip of the iceberg. It would take months to explore their cocktail list properly.

304 E. 6th Street, New York, NY    tel: 212-253-5888

PDT:  There were two things I took away from my experience at PDT, the speakeasy hidden within Crif Dogs in the East Village. The first, that a Bacon-Infused Old Fashioned can be a beautifully balanced, almost delicate cocktail (despite its ingredients) and that Wylie Dufresne (of WD-50) crafted one hell of a hot dog (the Wylie Dog is a deep-fried Crif Dog served with deep-fried mayo, tomato molasses, freeze-dried onions, and shredded romaine). It may sound gross on paper, but I assure you, it was life changing. I love Wylie!

113 St. Marks Place, New York, NY    tel for reservations:  212-614-0386

Fedora:  I fell in love with this tiny little restaurant in the West Village. The cocktails were excellent and while we only had appetizers at the bar, they were so well-executed that I can't wait to go back for an entire meal. Chicken liver toast might not sound like much, but it was divine. As were the hushpuppies (and I can get pretty snobby about those). It was packed the night we went, but this would be my go-to for a late dinner with someone special.

239 West 4th Street, New York, NY    tel: 646-449-9336

 

Maison Premiere:  I spent my birthday in Brooklyn and this is where I ended my night.  Described as an "oyster bar and cocktail den reflective of the staple establishments of New York, Paris, and New Orleans," this wonderful establishment manages to pull off every atmospheric detail (right down to the pull-chain toilets) without becoming a caricature of itself. The mostly absinthe-based cocktails were excellent and gave me a new appreciation for a spirit I tend to drink by itself, and if you're an oyster lover, you'll be thrilled by the regional selection that's available. Add to that a beautiful back patio and you have the perfect place for a night out with friends or lovers. I'll definitely be back.

298 Bedford Avenue, Brooklyn, NY    tel: 347-335-0446

Dram:  I started my birthday evening here, at this cocktail and tiki bar in Brooklyn. Laid back and casual, yet polished and professional, Dram offers a well-crafted array of cocktails and very good bar food. It helped that we were seated on comfortable benches next to shutters that opened out directly onto the street and encountered barely a hiccup in our experience. The only stumbling block - there was no Sazerac Rye on hand when I ordered a Sazerac.  But I tried it with Bulleit Rye instead and had a completely new interpretation of a Sazerac, which I thoroughly enjoyed (and can't wait to try again). So in the end, not a stumbling block at all!

177 South 4th Street, Brooklyn, NY    tel:  718-486-3726

 

Ward III:  The big draw here are the Bespoke Cocktails, custom cocktails created for the customer who specifies their preferences from five different categories - Spirit, Texture, Spice, Flavor, and Fruit.  There were three of us and the cocktails were wildly different across the table, but all very good. My friend had an amazing custom rum cocktail that I'm still thinking about (and wished that we'd asked the bartender about). The cheese plate and pulled duck sliders made us happy as well.  Even better - they stay open until 4 a.m.

111 Reade Street, New York, NY    tel:  212-240-9194

 

Title photo by Lee Gonzalez

Velvet Fig

Every summer I get impatient waiting for fig season. This year, with high temperatures and drought conditions, it seems unlikely that we'll get them at all. But thanks to the dried version, I can get my fig fix in liquid form anytime I like.

Buy a pound of your favorite variety of dried figs from a store like Whole Foods (I've used both Black Mission figs and golden Turkish), chop them in quarters, and add one 750 ml bottle of vodka.  Cover, refrigerate, and begin to check the flavor after 3 to 4 days.  You want the vodka to smell and taste like figs, but still retain a little bite.  However, if you let it sit too long and it gets too sweet and fruity, just mix in some plain vodka to taste. When the vodka infusion is complete, strain it and rebottle it. We store ours in the refrigerator.

You can mix it with club soda (try muddling some fresh tarragon with the vodka first, then strain it and top it with 2--3 ounces of soda) or try this cocktail my husband created, perfect for steamy days and nights.

Velvet Fig

1 1/2 ounces fig vodka
1 ounce fresh orange juice
1/2 ounce John Taylor's Velvet Falernum 
2 dashes Angostura bitters
2-3 ounces club soda

Place all ingredients in a cocktail glass (adding soda last).  Add ice, stir. Garnish with a skewered fig half (if available) or an orange twist. 

 

Tobacco Road

It all started at Pegu Club in New York. My husband came home with the tale of a chance meeting with Ted Breaux, a chemist from Louisiana who was creating an artisanal liqueur from a rare tobacco called Perique, a tobacco that could only be grown in one small area of Louisiana. Being a great romantic at heart, I was immediately intrigued by something so remote and mysterious. I wanted a bottle. 

Eventually we acquired this liqueur, which only increased my interest in the cultivation of this rare crop, its planting and harvesting methods passed down to the French from the Native Americans who were in Louisiana at the time. Finally, last summer, with tobacco season in full swing, I set off with my cousin and a friend to St. James Parish, to a small town nestled against the Mississippi River, just an hour away from New Orleans. There, near the end of a dead end road, lay an ancient story, a living history with only a toehold in the present.

We were greeted by Jimmy LeBlanc, a Cajun with a deeply tanned, permanently etched neck and an accent so thick that it required careful listening, who told us the story of this tobacco, his family's passion and livelihood for generations. They were down to harvesting just a few barrels of Perique a year, striving more to keep the tradition alive than to turning a profit. 

It was hot and I was sweating in the intense humidity, but the scent of mystery hung low in the air. The barn, with its many tobacco leaves hanging, drying in various stages, smelled sweet and warm. The scent was pleasant, though heady, and we were warned that we might feel sick if we spent too much time in the barn. It happened to each of the workers throughout the season, as they bundled and stripped each tobacco leaf by hand, a labor-intensive process that led to a small amount of the finest, rarest tobacco in the world.

We all had our roles, my cousin asking the right questions, one man of the land to another, my friend capturing the beauty of the details with her camera, and myself, simply listening and observing for future distillation. A small moment in time, a glimpse of the past, a heartbeat in the middle of nowhere. I love this wild, tangled land I'm lucky enough to live in.

This year, the story came full circle and my husband created a cocktail using Perique and tobacco bitters, along with rum, velvet falernum (a clove liqueur), and a drop of chocolate bitters. It's an incredibly smooth, complex drink that's perfect for the gentleman (or cocktail snob) in your life. The ingredients aren't readily accessible, but I wanted to post this cocktail anyway (for the intrepid hunters and gatherers) and because when I drink this cocktail it takes me back to the end of a dead end road where tobacco leaves rustle in the occasional breeze and history lives on.

 

Tobacco Road

1 3/4 ounces Ron Zacapa Rum
1/2 ounce Perique Liqueur
1/4 ounce John D. Taylor's Velvet Falernum
1/4 ounce fresh lime juice
2 drops Snake Oil Tobacco Bitters
1 drop Bitter Truth Xocolatl Mole Bitters

Combine all ingredients in an ice-filled cocktail shaker. Stir to chill. Strain into a chilled coupe or old-fashioned glass. Garnish with an orange twist.
 

Note: My husband took creative license with the naming of this cocktail, since Tobacco Road actually refers to the tobacco producing area of North Carolina. I mention this for the know-it-alls who will write to tell me that he got it wrong.

Carrot Cupcakes

I don't usually repost recipes, but it seemed like a good time to share this with new readers.

I made these cupcakes a couple of weeks ago for my son's preschool class and they were a huge hit. You know when you can entice 18 young children to clean their plates you're on to something good. The biggest surprise for all of them - where did the carrots go? To pull off that little trick, just make sure to finely zest your carrots. I use the Microplane Zester, which makes quick work out of the whole thing. 

Get the recipe here.

Shrimp and Grits

My youngest sister has been visiting this week, so there's been more cooking than usual around here. Last night I made shrimp and grits, which I discovered on my first trip to Charleston and Savannah a number of years ago. I love the versatility of this dish, that it can be served for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. It's also one of those dishes that inspire countless variations, each cook putting their own spin on it. This is my version, with a little tasso thrown in for Louisiana flavor. Outside of Louisiana, you can sometimes find tasso at better grocery stores. It can also be ordered online (and freezes well).

 

SHRIMP & GRITS: 

Creamy White Grits

2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cups water
2 cups chicken broth
2 1/2 cups stone-ground grits
3 cups whole milk
Salt to taste
 

1.  Bring butter, water, and chicken broth to a gentle boil in heavy-bottomed saucepan.  Slowly pour in grits, stirring constantly.  Reduce heat to low and continue to stir so grits don’t settle to bottom and burn.  

2.  Continue to cook grits for about 20 min., stirring frequently.  Grits should have absorbed all liquid and become soft.  Stir in ½ cup of the milk and cook until absorbed.  Continue adding ½ cup at a time, absorbing before each addition.  Total cooking time for grits will be approximately an hour.  Grits should be creamy like oatmeal (but not so soupy that they run on the plate).  Season to taste with salt. 

3.  Keep warm over low heat until ready to serve.  If grits become too thick, add more milk or chicken broth to thin them down.

 

Tasso Gravy

1/2 stick unsalted butter
1/2 cup chopped green bell pepper
3/4 cup tasso, cut into small cubes
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
4 cups chicken broth
2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
Ground cayenne pepper, to taste
Salt and white pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (or to taste)

1.  In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt the butter over low heat.  Add green pepper and sauté for 1 minute.  Add tasso and sauté for 1 more minute. 

2.  Make a roux by adding the flour and stirring until well combined.  Continue to cook over low heat for 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until roux develops a nutty aroma. 

3.  Turn heat up to medium and gradually add 2 cups of the chicken broth, stirring vigorously.  Keep stirring until broth begins to thicken and is smooth.  Gradually add remaining 2 cups of broth, stirring until broth thickens into gravy. 

4.  Reduce heat and simmer over low heat for 15 minutes to cook out the starchy flavor.  Add the chopped parsley and simmer for another 5 minutes. Season to taste with cayenne, salt, white pepper, and lemon juice.

 

Shrimp:

1 tablespoon olive oil
2 pounds medium or large shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 recipe Tasso gravy
1 tablespoon parsley, finely chopped

1.  In a heavy-bottomed frying pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat.  Add the shrimp and sauté until they begin to turn pink, 1-2 minutes.  Add to the tasso gravy.  Bring to a boil and let simmer for 1 minute.  Remove from heat and add chopped parsley. 

To serve:  Divide grits onto warmed plates or shallow bowls.  Spoon shrimp-tasso mixture over grits.  Top with crisp, browned leeks, if desired. 

Serves 4

 

Strawberry Shortcake

If my posts seem weighted toward strawberries these days, it's because we're in the thick of strawberry season here - and what strawberry season doesn't include strawberry shortcake?

I decided to try a new recipe this year and I really enjoyed it - except that I was baking and visiting at the same time and ended up swapping the liquid ingredients, using a higher ratio of milk to cream. So it's hard to say whether I like the original recipe or the amended version better. Either way, I think it's a good recipe to add to your collection. Flecks of orange zest adds a nice brightness to the shortcake and the berries macerate in a mixture of orange juice and sugar as well. 

The recipe comes from Virginia Willis' cookbook, Bon Appétit, Y'all. She mentions serving these shortcakes to President Clinton. I figure if they're good enough to serve a President, they're good enough for me. You can also supplement or substitute the strawberries for peaches and blueberries.

Brown-Sugar Shortcakes
(makes 8-10 shortcakes)

SHORTCAKES

3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1/3 cup granulated sugar
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon fine sea salt (I substituted kosher salt)
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small pieces
Grated zest of 1 orange, or 2 tablespoons Grand Marnier
1 cup heavy cream, plus more for brushing (I used 1/2 cup heavy cream) 
1/2 cup whole milk (I used 1 cup whole milk)
Turbinado, Demerara, or raw brown sugar, for sprinkling

BERRIES & GARNISH

2 pints strawberries, hulled and quartered lengthwise
Juice of 1 orange
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
Whipped cream, for accompaniment

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with a silicone baking sheet or parchment.

2. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, granulated sugar, baking powder, and salt on low speed. Add the butter and zest, and mix on low until the mixture resembles coarse meal, about 2 minutes. Add the cream and milk and increase the speed to medium; mix until the dough comes together. Remove the dough to a lightly floured surface, lightly knead a couple of times, and shape into a rectangle about 3/4 inch thick.

3. Use a 3-inch round cutter to cut dough circles. Place them on the prepared baking sheet; brush the tops lightly with cream and sprinkle with the brown sugar. Bake until the shortcakes are golden brown, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool.

4. Meanwhile, to prepare the berries, place the strawberries in a bowl. Add the orange juice and granulated sugar. Set aside.

To serve - halve the strawberries horizontally with a serrated knife. Place the bottom halves on individual serving plates, top each with a dollop of whipped cream, then some berries, and another dollop of whipped cream. Cover with the tops of the shortcakes and serve. 

A Sandwich for Spring

A couple of weeks ago I had a great sandwich at The Lucky Ladle here in New Orleans. It sounded so interesting I couldn't help but order it and I was pleasantly surprised. It was easy to recreate at home, so I thought I'd share it with you.

 

Smoked Turkey and Strawberry Sandwich 

Smoked turkey breast slices
Strawberries (2 or 3 per sandwich), sliced
Baby spinach leaves
Avocado, sliced
Mayonnaise (I added a little balsamic vinegar, to taste)
Sourdough bread

Layer and eat.  Light, fresh, perfect for springtime! 

Imbibe: Celebrating the South

 

I've been meaning to tell you about Imbibe magazine for some time now and when I saw the cover of the most recent issue, I knew the time had come. The Southern Issue covers liquid culture from Virginia to East Texas, with a few food recipes thrown in for good measure. It's a great issue, as is the magazine in general, and you don't want to miss it! Check out the Imbibe site to find out where to buy your issue and preview the content.

Have a great weekend!